Just had a s & s super carb installed on my 82 FLH. Ran good at low rpm's now it falls out at higher speed. The stock choke cable is laying under the gas tank. Does the S & S not use this?

SnS carbs have a fuel enrichener not a choke. I am assuming it is a 'E' carb. An 'E' is plenty of carb for a stock displacement shovel. The first thing to verify is the main jet for anything over 2.8K rpm. That is where the intermediate jet gives up to the main jet starts. https://www.sscycle.com/ has a good instruction step by step to get your thru it.
Also make sure the oring or rubber band (I think 82 has bands) are not leaking. Many folk (I do on my o-rings) use black elec tape on the heads/intake manifold to stop leaks.
Good luck.

Since you are new to SnS's, shovels do not do well with the extra fuel dumped in by the fuel enrichener. So it is very common and I would suggest that once started, open up the trottle a bit and set the solid throttle thumb screw and push the fuel enrichener down = off as soon as possible after starting.

Dan, thanks for the help. let me give you some more info on this. The harley set for 3 years. i bought it and trailered it home, drained the gas, oil, and pulled the bendix carb off and rebuilt it. It would run but wouldn't idle. Finally gave up and took it to a local shop. He went thru three carbs before he put the current one on. We don't know the history of the bike, but have determined that it has a big bore kit and some sort of cam. i rode it for about 80 miles and at first it seemed to run good, but after a while, it would start cutting out at higher RPM's. I haven't talked to him yet, but wanted some feed-back before i did.

Cutting out at higher rpm - like the float is too low and it is starved for gas?
Just one more thing to check.
If you can run it at 65 mph for 5 min, pull the clutch and cut the engine.
Coast to the shoulder and check the plugs are a light tan. Black is too rich, white is too lean.
Good luck

Yes, that is the way we used to do it in "the bad old days." I'm reluctant to defend that position now.

If the engine is stock and in the condition reflecting the tolerances of the original era I would probably say it's okay if the color was a tad darker tan. I doubt that the engine would stumble at stoplights, and climbing to higher elevations might lean the motor out anyway.

With modern tolerances, or in a rebuilt motor with more modern NOS parts, I'd be really careful. I'm not even sure that oil pumps of that era worked to the demands of the loads in the 1970s, much less today. I've found that everything is hotter and leaner. And if I miss my questimate I might even make things dangerously lean.

There are so many modern variables. Like sparkplugs, and more efficient ignition systems with hotter and fatter sparks.

And let's face it, when we were kids we used to run the bikes, stop for a beer and then rub our fingers inside the tailpipe. Then all of our buddies--none of which were mechanics--would comment on the 'color' and then have another beer...

Listen to the tourist, he is way smarter than me.

LOL. Oh, no you don't! I know nuttin' 'bout nuttin.' No one was has made more mistakes in motorcycling than I have, a condition still true to this very day!

Parts are better than ever, and bikes make more BHP than our old stuff. Depending on what day your old shovel was built in the old days, it could have between 45 to 60 BHP. And now Betty makes 100/100 in BHP and torque as underwritten on a dyno.

We buy replacement parts not from the dusty achives of MoCo but from modern parts bins. And a modern S&S carburetor is not a Linkert. Take apart an old Linkert and you'll be shocked to find out it's a bronze tube with rudimentary 'needle.' It's a wonder that old stuff ran at all! We used to laugh that a Bendix was just an aluminum Linkert.

I've been out of the game for a few decades. Is there some form of tailpipe monitoring sensor that validates the proper mix on older re-jetted bikes?

I just got back to the forum, and down loaded the manual from sscycle.com. Thanks for that address. I'ts nice to be able to get good info without having to give credit card numbers, etc. Will play with the SnS this weekend and try and figure it out. Now I'm wondering is it is a electronic issue and not fuel?

These old shovels have a mind of their own. Mine knows when I have $10 in my pocket that I can spend on her.
This last summer I went for a ride on my shovel and at higher rpm the bike would cut out.
Idled fine, started fine but when rev'ed it would break up. After a $140 tow home and 2 hours of testing and testing and ... I stopped and had a beer or 2.
Then I started to take things apart and under the seat, I bumped the main wire from the 'breakered copper tab'. Sure enough the wire popped out of the plastic sheath around the crimped eyehole connector.
After laughing at myself until I cried (remembering the tow cost) I had another beer.
Good luck !