I would have been scratching my head if I didn't find this youtube video. The guy that did it had it about 75% right. I'm here to show you how to do it all the way right.
First you have to see his video -

Then once you understand what he's doing - you can use my advice to get 'er done!!

What I did differently was wad up some cotton I cut off a cotton ball and clog the fitting so nothing drops through. My idea keeps all the shavings out of the carb and believe me I've had my share of getting metal filings out of places they shouldn't be.

Here's his video and my pics.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyjLyKsHyvI[/youtube]

Not getting a bunch of metal filings in a working carb was the first improvement I made, the second was I put the new part and a small drinking glass in the freezer and heated the carb body up with a heat gun. I got the carb hot enough that I had to wear heavy leather gloves to handle it.

Once I got the carb up to temp I ran into the house put the part in the drinking glass to keep it cold and went back into the workshop. I hoped it would just slide into place but that was a pipe dream. I wound up tapping it in with a small hammer, getting the angle right. Then once it was positioned I pressed it into place in the carb with my big "C" clamp - clamped to the workbench.

I think just in case the video ever stops being available I should describe what I did to get the results I got.

Start to finish:
I noticed a gas leak, traced it back to a cracked "L" inlet fitting. Ordered a new replacement - both were available, a stock OEM plastic covered brass fitting "exactly" like the one that just failed OR a solid brass one. I chose the brass one.

I removed the carb by first following the manual on removal.

MAKE SURE THE GAS IS SHUT OFF - DONT SMOKE NEAR GASOLINE

Locate the choke cable - it is held in place by a bracket that the cable screws through. The locking nut is loosened and the cable will drop out of the bracket. Let the cable just hang.
Remove the air cleaner & backing plate - the carb is connected to the engine by way of the backing plate - so you must remove the plate completely from the carb - 3 bolts plus 2 large breather bolts.
Once the carb is free of the air cleaner, backing plate and you have access to it,
Have a small container handy - I use a clean tuna can - disconnect the fuel line from the gas inlet fitting, the one being replaced.
IF you have a hard time freeing the line from the fitting I used my small flat screwdriver with some lube - either oil or grease, I dab a little on the end of the screwdriver and then work it in between the rubber line and the plastic fitting. Once you get it in a little dab it again and do the other side of the line 180 from the first stab. do that again 90 degrees from that stab and then again 180 from that one. So you've gotten it broken free from 4 places, I then work the screwdriver around the entire end and give the line a twist you'll see how easy it comes off.
Now you can grab the carb and break it loose from the intake manifold. It is held in by a rubber gasket, The first time I had to break it free it took some real strength so if it doesn't move you will have to man handle it - still be careful with gripping sensitive areas. Also if it is that hard to break free you will need a new gasket - the old one is dried out and hard and wont re-seal.
OK - we have the carb, gas line off, free from the intake:
You have a vacuum line you have to disconnect - it pulls straight off - same thing with the gas line - first time I had to remove this one it was really difficult - see if you can get a drop of oil in it to break it loose.
Next - throttle cables, Remove the cable connector screws 2- both Phillips head, the larger one is a stripped one waiting to happen - I used a vise grip pliers to pinch it and snap it loose. the other smaller screw is a brass one that comes in from the top. Once you locate and remove those two screws you will have enough slack in the cables to disconnect them from the carb.
One thing left - choke cable - wiggle it through the tangle under the tank - and yes it should make it through.

At this point you should be holding the carburetor in one of your hands. Congratulations you got it off.

My carb was pretty dirty so I cleaned it with diesel fuel and a tooth brush - outside only - get all road grime off so you are working with a clean, recognizable and easy to handle carb. I use old cotton rags to wipe down parts - seems to just work the best. Now you have a clean, dry complete carb with a broken piece that needs to be removed. If your carb is working well the less you mess with it the better. But if you have any issues with it - now is the time to deal with them. If you haven't taken your carb apart before or for a while you will need a rebuild kit - contains gaskets, seals and a accelerator pump diaphragm.

How to remove the broken "L" inlet fitting:
First take a pencil and mark the angle of the fitting. You will need to make sure the new part has the same angle.
Remove the plastic part of the fitting by breaking it off with a pliers.
You will see a brass inlet fitting stuck in the carb. NOW - take a small wad of cotton - I cut some off a cotton ball. Balled it up tight and then rammed it into the inlet about a 1/4" - you don't want to ram it through but clog off the brass fitting.

You need a puller assembly = a 1+" 1/4x20 screw or bolt, a flat washer, a nut 1/4x20
Screw the nut on the screw all the way to the top, place the washer on the screw - this is the puller assembly.

With the fitting clogged with cotton, take a 1/4" x 20 treads per inch tap and tap the brass fitting you want at leas 4 complete threads. I used a 3/8ths socket just big enough to get around the brass fitting and rest on the carb body, I think it was a 1/2" but if not just try the next size up till it slides over the brass fitting.
Socket in place over brass fitting, screw assembly into brass fitting 4 turns. now using counter torque, you will tighten the nut down on the socket holding the screw stationary with the carb. This process will extract the brass fitting pulling it out of the carb. Don't stop until it pops out being careful not to push the cotton through. You should now have the whole assembly and brass fitting clear of the carb.

Pressing in the new part:
I froze the new part for a few hours before I needed it. I also put a small drinking glass in the freezer to carry the part out in. My thinking, the less I handled the cold part the better.
I used a heat gun set on low heat to warm up the carb, It was realistically hot enough that it was very uncomfortable to touch so I used heavy leather gloves to handle it.
The new part was cold the carb was hot and the part was still too tight to just push in by hand. The new part has to match the mark you put on the carb earlier. I tapped the part in just far enough to get it stuck at the correct angle then I pressed it in with a large "C" clamp. It went in pretty easy I don't know that the temperature difference made all that much of a difference but the part was still colder than the carb when done and it did go straight in.

Reconnect everything back:

Choke cable pushed back into its place.
Vacuum Tube
Throttle Cables
Gas/Fuel Line
Backing Plate
Air Cleaner
Tighten Choke cable in bracket

Test for leaks.

The pics tell the details.

New fitting in place - no leaks - ready for backing plate and air cleaner cover.