It all started when the accelerator pump diaphragm cracked and started to leak.
I had to pull the carb off, but it was stuck tight in the old seal so after twisting and pulling pretty hard I stopped and just removed the lower cover to the carb that contains the acc pump. I replaced all the rubber gaskets, o-ring and diaphragm. I put the carb back together and the bike started back up and ran.
After a couple rides it started to run really ruff and wouldn't idle. My brother suggested the intake was leaking so we took some w-d-40 and squirted around the seals. Sure enough the idle went up and we had a positive test that there was a leak.

I pulled the carb off- and I mean I had to really PULL & TWIST to break that sucker loose (18 years - this is the first time it needed to come off). I could see the intake moving around too, the seals were broken there. Finally the carb came loose and I was able to get down to fixing it.

I had to buy a short 1/4" allen wrech and then I had to cut it down farther with a hack saw. On the left side of the bike the intake screws are at such an angle that without the short allen wrench you can't take the intake off. They do sell a specialty tool - rachet model $35-$55, short allen wrech 10 bucks, my fix less than 1 dollar...

I read in my manual to use lube, great tip. With the lube - the seals can slide around and seat easier. It also makes the re-alignment (putting it back) much faster/easier.

Any way she's back together and running smooth again. If anyone has questions ask me now before I forget. I'm really happy with the way everything turned out.

In the photo below,
I show the new intake seals (all 3 are made of rubber), and the intake and clamps. Notice the clamps are labled F-front R-rear. Lube up the seals and slide 'em on. Tip don't lube the inside of the carb seal but just the surface that contacts the carb. This way the seal stays in place and just the carb surface has movement.

I had one glitch, the trottle cables didn't seat and I had to pull it apart one time to correct it then back together and started right up.

Hey RK thanks for the tech info.

What kind of lube did you use?

I couldn't just write this without you seeing it for yourself...

if you use a long ball socket allen you can get to all the allens with no problem, and starting them is easier also.

That might work if I'd taken off the gas tank. I didn't.
I removed and unplugged the horn.
had enough access to use my "shoe horn" wrench and only had to deal with the carb and intake.
IF I wanted to mess with the gas tank- I'd of had to go the whole route of removing the seats... blah-blah-blah... No thanks.
I do wrap my chrome and paint in many layers of towels and rags to protect them from errant - wrench slips and bumps.
I've learned on this bike, its at that age that if you touch it you'll have to fix it...

Almost lost my air cleaner cover...
I started to hear a rattle on acceleration. Then I could hear it while I was just cruising along...
I started to check things out at the stop light and found the hex bolt that holds the cover on so loose I could spin tighten it by hand. I pulled into the next parking lot and stopped and cranked it down with my pocket tool and when I got home torqued it down. I remembered not wanting to "over tighten" it so I didn't reef down on it- I did get it snug this time.